Sunday, May 17, 2015

Kid in Kansai: How to nail Kansai with a toddler in tow (Part 6)

Day 6 was dedicated to the Eastern Higashiyama area. Let's start off with a kid alert right away.

Kid alert: The itinerary covers a walking tour of about four to five hours (including a stop for lunch). It covers a number of key sights and while you can "break" it up into two days, it makes more sense to cover it as one long stretch. This was probably the most tiring day of our itinerary (along with Himeji). Walking, climbing and carrying will no doubt provide a fantastic cardio-strength workout, with a positive side effect of being able to eat a lot without growing fat.

We started off with the Kiyomizudera (via bus, as usual), which has to be approached via an uphill climb from the bus stop. If needed, stop for a soft serve ice-cream (hojicha, macha, sakura... choose your flavours!)

After Kiyomizudera, we proceeded downwards to Sannenzaka and Ninenzaka, picturesque flights of steps with quaint shops on both sides. Don't miss Ishibe Koji, probably one of our favourite places in Kyoto - a picture-perfect lane lined with traditional houses. This whole process should take about 30 minutes if you're fast, or more likely an hour, if you want to take lots of photos.
The atmospheric Ishibe Koji

We then made our way to Maruyama Koen (park), a little Japanese-style park which is popular for sakura-viewing, for a brief rest. The little one will be glad to be out of the carrier (if he was in it) for a little stretching of his legs.

After the park, we made our way for a quick photo stop of Chion-In and Shoren-In temples, which were on the way to Nanzenji, which is a 20 or 30 minute walk away (slopes included).
Nanzenji

At this point, mama and papa should have been thoroughly worn out by now, and perhaps the little one is asleep in his carrier. (By the way, our recommendation is to use a carrier instead of a pram - there are just too many flights of stairs and pebbled pavements at the Kyoto sights). Walk along the Path of Philosophy towards Ginkakuji, the last of today's destinations. The path is not short - about 30 minutes in total - so try to stop for lunch along the path. 

We chanced upon a signboard that said it served udon. It was a lovely find - a little "hidden" shop serving wonderful hot and cold soba. Only later did we realise that it was a place that we had shortlisted as "to go". The shop's name is O-men - they had an outlet near Sanjo station as well, but this one seemed more atmospheric. They have the traditional tatami seats, which was very good for our well-worn legs. Altogether, a fantastic respite from the walk!
The highly-recommended O-men. Pictured here is their seasonal set.

After being suitably recharged, we made our way to the final destination of the day - Ginkakuji. Do not expect a silver version of Kinkakuji - this was is wood all the way, but the design is a replica of the gold version. Take a short hike up the hill for a great view of the temple.
Where's the silver in Ginkakuji?

After this, we made our way back to the hotel for some serious resting. In the evening, you can walk around Teramachi Dori street and if you're early enough, check out the Nishiki market.

Western-style desserts can also be found at the Lipton Cafe on Sanjo Dori.

Kids will enjoy the strawberry shortcake (top) while the adults will like the matcha sponge cake with kuromame black beans.


The complete itinerary:
Day 1: Osaka (Kuromon Market, Osaka Castle, Dotonbori)
Day 2: Osaka (Shitennoji, Sumiyoshi Taisha)
Day 3: Kobe, Himeji (Himeji Castle, Mount Rokko, Harbourland)
Day 4: Nara (Todaiji, Kohfukuji, Nara Park)
Day 5: Kyoto (Arashiyama, Tenryuji, Bamboo Grove, Kinkakuji)
Day 6: Kyoto (Kiyomizudera, Sannenzakai, Ninenzakai, Ishibe Koji, Maruyama Park, Shoren-in, Chion-in, Nanzenji, Path of Philosophy, Ginkakuji)
Day 7: Inari, Uji (Fushimi Inari Taisha, Byodoin Temple, Kaiseki)
Day 8 & 9: Kyoto (Nijo Castle, Kyoto Station, Pontocho, Gion)

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