Kid in Kansai: How to nail Kansai with a toddler in tow (Part 1)

It's not difficult to imagine why Japan is a popular vacation spot for families with young ones in tow. Cute cartoon characters courtesy of Mickey and friends, good hygiene levels, safety and familiar food makes it a fool-proof destination for young families looking for a great vacation.

While Tokyo and Hokkaido tend to be natural choices, the Kansai region - which includes places like Osaka, Kyoto, Kobe and Nara, however, tends to be a tad challenging for those with younger children below three. On one hand, the kids are too young to truly enjoy and max out the price of a Universal Studios ticket, or appreciate the beauty of heritage and architecture. On the other hand, the Kansai area is a great place for adults who enjoy the robust, flavourful cuisine of Osaka, or the elegant, exquisite flavours of Kyoto, while taking in some truly gorgeous heritage sights that cannot be found in Tokyo or Hokkaido.

Adding on to that challenge is the mode of transport for travelers would fall mainly on subways and trains (as well as buses for Kyoto), as driving in Kansai doesn't really make much sense as most sights are served by public transport (albeit multiple changes on lines sometimes).

Here is a nine-day itinerary which we went on along with a three-year-old covering Osaka, Kyoto, Kobe, Himeji, Nara and Uji, and how to make it fun for you just as for your kid. Plus, some tips that will make it less tiring (and therefore more enjoyable) for the parents.

The first thing to consider is where to stay. We decided to spend four nights at an Osaka hotel and another four nights at Kyoto. Kobe, Himeji and Nara are all possible as day trips from Osaka (and Kyoto as well, though longer). Uji is very near to Kyoto and best as a day trip (or half day trip from the ancient capital).

Our hotels of choice were both in the city centre: Monterey Grasmere in Osaka (next to JR Namba station) and Kyoto Royal Hotel & Spa (near to Sanjo station).

Day 1: Osaka
There are multiple ways to get from Osaka's Kansai International Airport to the city centre. The Osaka City Air Terminal (OCAT) just outside the airport provides a comfortable 50-minute ride to the Namba station, and is a great way for the little one to take in some sights of Osaka while parents catch a snooze as they probably didn't get to sleep much on the plane. Other ways include a rapid subway or the airport express, which all stop conveniently at Namba, near the hotel.

Lunch: We visited the Kuromon Market, eager to try some fresh otoro (tuna belly) sushi and Kobe beef. Do note that the market is not huge, though sufficient, and sells mainly fish, seafood, beef, fruits as well as some local snacks like okonomiyaki (pancake) and katsu (deep-fried skewers). The otoro sushi is very fresh, generous and decently priced and there are a few shops selling Kobe beef, which you can choose in terms of cut and weight, and they will grill it on the spot for your consumption. Kuromon Market is about 10 to 15 minutes walk from the Monterey Grasmere.

Kuromon market: Pick you cut and weight of Kobe beef, and the shop owner will grill it for you on the spot.

Otoro (tuna belly) sushi: Luxurious but oh, so oily!

Kid alert: Most shops selling food do not have any tables or chairs for eating in, so be prepared to eat on the go, or to buy back to your hotel. Some stalls do have a random table where people crowd around to eat, and even fewer have a seating area upstairs. So if the little one is meant to have lunch here, be prepared to squat somewhere while holding the plate of food for him or her. 

Osaka Castle (Osaka-jyo): The icon of Osaka, this is a popular spot for visitors to Osaka. The interior of the castle now houses a museum showcasing different artefacts and videos about the history of the castle. But honestly, if you intend to go to Himeji, the castle there surpasses this by far.

Osaka Castle

Kid alert: There are two stations that are "near" to the Osaka castle - Tanimachi 4-chome or Osakajyo Koen. But to be honest, neither are "near". They are a good 20-minute walk away, assuming that you either have to walk slowly to accommodate a child's pace, or carry him / her at some point in time. The good thing is, between Osakajyo Koen and the castle, you will come across a fountain area with a few shops - one of which sells very good, rich soft-serve ice-cream at just 300 yen. The inside of the castle can also be a little bit dark at certain exhibit areas, so do take note if your little one is prone to be afraid of the dark.

Junior would probably have fallen asleep after this (not that it's boring... it's just the time of the day) so it's probably a good idea to head back to the hotel and check in if you weren't able to do so earlier (Japanese hotels are quite strict about check-in times, usually at 3pm).

Dinner: Namba Walk, Namba and Dotonbori are all walkable from the hotel and the sheer extent of food options available mean the only limit is stomach space and budget.

Here are the ones we tried over the course of our four nights in Osaka which we liked:

• Okonomiyaki: Mizuno (by far our favourite for its soft, melt in the mouth texture) and Creo-Ru (also famous for their takoyaki)
• Takoyaki: The afore-mentioned Creo-Ru, Dotonbori Konamon Museum
• Ramen: Hanamaruken (seriously, the best ramen we had so far, with its flavourful broth and slow-roasted pork belly), Ichiran Ramen
• Desserts: Head over to the nearby Takashimaya food hall and be spoilt for choice. We liked Henry Charpentier and the little one loved its strawberry shortcake especially

Takoyaki at Dotonbori Konamon Museum

Can't go hungry in Osaka!

After that (or before), take a stroll around and spot the giant 3-D octopuses, crabs, sushi and gyoza billboards, and the famous Glico Man behind. Junior will surely love it.

Glico Man, the other symbol of Osaka besides Osaka Castle

Kid alert: Most eateries in Namba and Dotonbori have kiddy chairs and they are quick to ask you if you need one. Otherwise, I asked in my basic Japanese, "Kodomo no isu ga arimasuka?" (Is there a kid's chair?).

Stay tuned for more!

The complete itinerary:
Day 1: Osaka (Kuromon Market, Osaka Castle, Dotonbori)
Day 2: Osaka (Shitennoji, Sumiyoshi Taisha)
Day 3: Kobe, Himeji (Himeji Castle, Mount Rokko, Harbourland)
Day 4: Nara (Todaiji, Kohfukuji, Nara Park)
Day 5: Kyoto (Arashiyama, Tenryuji, Bamboo Grove, Kinkakuji)
Day 6: Kyoto (Kiyomizudera, Sannenzakai, Ninenzakai, Ishibe Koji, Maruyama Park, Shoren-in, Chion-in, Nanzenji, Path of Philosophy, Ginkakuji)
Day 7: Inari, Uji (Fushimi Inari Taisha, Byodoin Temple, Kaiseki)
Day 8 & 9: Kyoto (Nijo Castle, Kyoto Station, Pontocho, Gion)